Marigold & Beige Madhubani Print Tussar Ghicha Silk Unstitched Suit

A three-piece unstitched suit set in Bhagalpuri tussar ghicha silk — a plain
marigold dupatta with deep Madhubani-printed ends, worn over a kurta panel
carrying a full narrative composition in red, mustard and charcoal on undyed
beige.

The kurta panel is the piece to look at. A figure sits inside a scalloped
temple arch holding a lotus, petals radiating out behind her in bands of
mustard, red and grey. Beside her stands a crowned figure in profile, drawn
with the long eye and sharp jaw that mark Mithila faces. Birds, fish and
leafing branches fill the ground between them, and rows of saw-tooth
triangles divide one register from the next — the way a painted wall is
divided, one story above another.

The dupatta is left plain through its length in a clear marigold orange, so
the colour reads as a block when it is draped, with the printed composition
returning at both ends above plain beige tips and a raw-cut fringe. The
bottom is plain, in a soft blush tan.

Ghicha yarn is drawn from the outer layers of the tussar cocoon and spun by
hand, so the thread comes off the spindle uneven — thicker in one stretch,
finer in the next. Woven up, that unevenness reads across the cloth as fine
slubs and soft striations, with a matte lustre rather than a shine. It shows
most clearly on the plain marigold, where there is no print to distract from
the texture of the yarn itself.

DETAILS
Fabric: Pure handloom tussar ghicha silk (kurta and dupatta), plain blush tan bottom
Kurta panel: 2.50 m
Dupatta: 2.25 m
Bottom: 2.00 m
Work: Madhubani screen print in red, mustard and charcoal on natural beige
Dupatta: Plain marigold orange with printed Madhubani end panels
Colour: Marigold orange with natural beige; blush tan bottom
Dupatta finish: Plain raw-cut fringe at both ends
Care: Dry clean only. Store folded in cotton muslin, away from direct sun.

CRAFT NOTE
Tussar ghicha is spun and woven in and around Bhagalpur in Bihar, on pit and
frame looms worked by hand. Madhubani painting comes from the Mithila region
of the same state — a wall-and-floor tradition carried by women for
generations, moved onto cloth and paper in the last century. The design here
is screen printed onto the woven silk.